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As far as I can remember there is a
campsite in every little village along the Stuart Highway. The
prices in the bigger towns were about 3-7A$ per person (that was
before the GST). Yulara and Kings Canyon Frontier Lodge were
more expensive (11A$ per person), but the prices were getting
cheaper with every following night. Usually we preferred to
pitch our tent just beside the road. This is no problem when you
are in lonesome areas but can be difficult in populated places
along the coast |
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It’s
best to use a petrol stove. This fuel is everywhere available
and it’s not expensive. Contrary to that, I have seen only
once some replacement fuel for gas stoves. That was in Yulara, a
town that only exists thanks to the tourism |
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But
there can also be troubles with the petrol stove: we weren’t
allowed to transport the fuel bottle on our domestic flight,
since it smelled of petrol. Maybe you’ll find a solution if
you talk to the employees |
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Banal
but you need to get used to it: in Australia there is left-hand
drive. Some little change for continental europeans… |
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Although
Australia is an industrialized country, you’ll find very few
cycle shops between Darwin and Port Augusta. The following towns
along the Stuart HWY possessed such shops: Darwin, Tennant Creek
(quite little range of products), Alice Springs 2x (but they
didn’t know “Magura”), Port Augusta. Therefore it is
important to have your own spare
parts with you. Among other things, we had the following
spare parts with us: tyres, tubes, spokes (the left and the
right spokes of the rear wheel and the ones of the front wheel
usually have different lengths!), brake shoes and wires for the
derailleur and the brakes (since my Fateba is equipped with
hydraulic brakes, I had a repair kit with me). Unfortunately
there was no bulb among our spare parts, and of course it was
just this stupid little thing that dropped out first... |
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About
half of the time we fought against the (sometimes quite strong)
headwind or sidewind. There was only every now and then some
tailwind.
The main wind direction was south-east. You might think about
cycling from the south to the north, if you prefer the easy way.
Don't hesitate to have a look at some information about the
australian climate,
wind
und weather |
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In
my opinion you absolutely have to have a rear-view mirror! Road
trains represent no longer a danger when you are able to see
them approach. Only if they cross an other vehicle right beside
you, you may better go off the road. There shouldn't be any
problem with that, since the ditch usually consists of a rather
broad gravel strip |
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As
long as there is no explicit ban you are allowed to cycle
on your own risk on the side-strip of the freeways. However, if
it is prohibited you really have to obey. Otherwise you can get
in really dangerous situations (as it happened to us)!!! |
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South
of Port Augusta the traffic volume increases dramatically. Right
when you come from desert back to civilisation this can really
be annoying. You may prefer to avoid the Highway 1 |
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The
water along our route was usually bad in taste but still
drinkable. We never had any health problems, although we
used our micropur tablets only once or twice |
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In
the sparsely populated areas along the Stuart HWY there are
every now and then some watertanks,
where you could fill up your empty bottles. These tanks are
marked in the “Handy Atlas” of “Hema”. However, these
information were not always up to date. I updated them to be
able to give some information to other cyclists. But this was in
2000… Urs Arnold has also dated but detailed
information on his homepage |
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If
you are well provided with water you can cool your bottle by
putting a wet sock or something similar over it. The water of
the cloth evaporates and cools down the liquid in your bottle.
You’ll like the refreshment on hot days! |
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Kakadu
Nationalpark. Unfortunately we haven’t been there. All I
can say is that it has to be a very exciting spot, as well as
the nearby situated Litchfield NP |
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Katherine
Gorge. Nice gorge that can be explored by canoe.
Nitmiluk NP includes 12 other gorges |
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Mataranka
Thermal Pools. I still regret that we didn’t use this
opportunity. The Thermal Pools seem to be well known |
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Newcastle
Waters. Again something we missed. These ruins of a town are
only 2km off the highway. We camped near the crossing, but we
weren’t aware of this place of interest |
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Devils
Marbles. Quite big marbles of stone. They are there, hanging
around and waiting for you to come. Only few tourists make the
500m-detour from the highway to the marbles |
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Henbury
Meteorite Conservation Reserve. Unfortunately the road was
closed, so we couldn’t get to the meteorite crater |
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Mount
Conner. From a great distance this mesa looks similar to
Uluru / Ayers Rock. There are tours departing at the roadhouse
of Curtin Springs (see below) |
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Uluru.
The famous monolith. Thousands of tourists. Advertisement for
sightseeing flights by helicopter: “You don’t even leave a
footprint”... My suggestion: Take a bicycle or walk around.
You’ll have enough time to see the beauty of Ayers Rock and
you don’t harass other people by the helicopter’s noise |
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Kata
Tjuta. Less known than Uluru but not less beautiful. Advice:
don’t take the late tour. Otherwise they will drag you back to
the car after a short time and carry you off to Uluru in order
to see the sunset (I must admit that it wasn’t that bad. But I
think you got the idea) |
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Watarrka.
A detour that is worth the pain. Just beautiful |
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Coober
Pedy. A rough town in a rough environment. Underground
accommodations and a wide range of opal stores are inviting you
for a visit |
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Botanical
Garden of Port Augusta. The only reason for me to mention it
is, that it showed more or less the same plants we had seen
every day for about one month. It’s probably more interesting
for people cycling to the north – they can have a first look
at what they will see during the next 2000km or so |
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Great
Ocean Road. Because of lack of time we chose a different
route. Except for the high traffic density this must be a very
nice route – we were told so many times |
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Daly
Waters. A genuine pub, about 2km beside the Stuart HWY. The
walls are covered with business cards and stickers from allover
the world. Moreover, the fabulous Stuart Tree is only a
stone’s throw from there. At least its remains |
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Barrow
Creek. A very atmospheric roadhouse. These walls are covered
with money from allover the world |
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Casa
Nostra (Alice Springs). Although this is a real restaurant
and not a roadhouse, I had to mention it somewhere. Dignified
atmosphere and great italian food |
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Mount
Ebenezer. This roadhouse belongs to a Yolngu community and
runs a nice gallery with aboriginal works of arts |
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Curtin
Springs. The „original Curtin Springs Bullshit“ nailed
on the wall, the cook who prepared us some breakfast in the
evening and the barkeeper who had some tricky mental exercises
for us – it was just cool there. There is also a free
campground (it’s about the same as desert soil) and you can
take a shower for 1A$ |
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Remember:
summer in Europe and the rest of the northern hemisphere means
winter in Australia (...and the rest of the southern hemisphere,
of course). Although the temperatures in the northern part of
the country still are quite hot, sunset is early in the evening.
In addition to that it can get rather cold in the inner part of
the continent |
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I
think it's best to buy the maps/atlas on site. A big map showing
the hole country is not very useful, since it is not precise
enough. We were using the "Handy Atlas" from "Hema".
In my opinion this is a quite good product. We were told that
australian automobile clubs also publish some good maps |
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During
the flight or rather the loading and unloading, the cycles
usually aren't treated very carefully by the employees. That's
why you are often recommended to pack your bike into an old
carton. We didn't do that, but we demounted some exposed pieces
and put our recumbents into some strong plastic bags. Result:
the conduit of my bike's front hydraulic break was slightly
crushed. Fortunately the break still worked. On the return
flight I was too lazy to demount anything and was lucky that
there was no damage on the bike |
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If
you stay in Australia for a longer period you may take into
consideration to open a bank account. It's almost everywhere
possible to pay by using a bank card. Also credit cards are
almost everywhere welcome |
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Topic
dangerous animals: there are no lions, bears etc. in Australia.
The only mammals that might annoy you are the dingoes
(especially the ones on campgrounds - they are used to the
presence of humans and don't fear them anymore). But there are
crocodiles in the northern swamps. And, of course there is a
quite wide range of venomous snakes. Usually not really
dangerous but appearing in great numbers and very annoying:
flies, mosquitos and sometimes ants
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Another
hint concerning animals: make sure that there is no snake in
your shoes before you put them on. It's the same for the
sleeping bag. Snakes like warm temperatures and could therefore
try to find a warm place in your sleeping bag |
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There
are no 4.5V flat batteries in Australia. Maybe these batteries
are a swiss/european exclusiveness? In any case I couldn't use
my torch and had to buy a new one. A good alternative to a
conventional pocket lamp is in my opinion a LED-headlamp. Some
people use them even for cycling |
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We
stored our documents (passport, credit card) in a kind of wallet
that's wore around the neck. This is safe, but I never got used
to it. Additionally the partner had copies of the most important
documents and of the keys |
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We
made very good experiences in writing a diary about the journey.
It's not always easy to drop a line after a hard day, I have to
admit. But weeks, months or years after the journey you'll laugh
about the pain and you'll rejoice about a nice day |
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Aldi
developed his photos right on site (less expensive than in
Switzerland). He was quite disappointed, since the colours are
by far to intense and the borders are often truncated. Of course
this won't be the case in every australian photo shop. But I
think it's the best to develop your pictures in a shop you know
and you made good experiences with |
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Last
but not least: |
In
Australia, as a cyclist you have to wear a helmet. But you
would anyway never cycle without your helmet, would
you?
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