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campsite in every little village along the Stuart Highway. The prices
in the bigger towns were about 3-7A$ per person (that was before the
GST). Yulara and Kings Canyon Frontier Lodge were more
expensive (11A$ per person), but the prices were getting cheaper with
every following night. Usually we preferred to pitch our tent
just beside the road. This is no problem when you are in lonesome
areas but can be difficult in populated places along the coast |
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 | It’s
best to use a petrol stove. This fuel is everywhere available and
it’s not expensive. Contrary to that, I have seen only once some
replacement fuel for gas stoves. That was in Yulara, a town that only
exists thanks to the tourism |
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 | But
there can also be troubles with the petrol stove: we weren’t allowed
to transport the fuel bottle on our domestic flight, since it smelled
of petrol. Maybe you’ll find a solution if you talk to the employees |
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 | Banal
but you need to get used to it: in Australia there is left-hand drive.
Some little change for continental europeans… |
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 | Although
Australia is an industrialized country, you’ll find very few cycle
shops between Darwin and Port Augusta. The following towns along the
Stuart HWY possessed such shops: Darwin, Tennant Creek (quite little
range of products), Alice Springs 2x (but they didn’t know “Magura”),
Port Augusta. Therefore it is important to have your own spare
parts with you. Among other things, we had the following spare
parts with us: tyres, tubes, spokes (the left and the right spokes of
the rear wheel and the ones of the front wheel usually have different
lengths!), brake shoes and wires for the derailleur and the brakes
(since my Fateba is equipped with hydraulic brakes, I had a repair kit
with me). Unfortunately there was no bulb among our spare parts, and
of course it was just this stupid little thing that dropped out
first... |
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 | About
half of the time we fought against the (sometimes quite strong)
headwind or sidewind. There was only every now and then some tailwind.
The main wind direction was south-east. You might think about cycling
from the south to the north, if you prefer the easy way. Don't hesitate to
have a look at some information about the australian climate,
wind
und weather |
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 | In
my opinion you absolutely have to have a rear-view mirror! Road trains represent no longer a danger when you are able to see them approach.
Only if they cross an
other vehicle right beside you, you may better go off the road. There shouldn't be any problem with that, since the ditch
usually consists of a rather broad gravel strip |
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 | As
long as there is no explicit ban you are allowed to cycle
on your own risk on the side-strip of the freeways. However, if it is
prohibited you really have to obey. Otherwise you can get in really dangerous situations (as it happened to us)!!! |
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 | South
of Port Augusta the traffic volume increases dramatically. Right when you come from desert
back to civilisation this can really be annoying. You may prefer to avoid the
Highway 1 |
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 | The
water along our route was usually bad in taste but still drinkable. We
never had any health problems, although we used our
micropur tablets only once or twice |
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 | In
the sparsely populated areas along the Stuart HWY there are every now
and then some watertanks,
where you could fill up your empty bottles. These tanks are marked in
the “Handy Atlas” of “Hema”. However, these information were
not always up to date. I updated them to be able to give some
information to other cyclists. But this was in 2000… Urs Arnold has
also dated but detailed
information on his homepage |
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If
you are well provided with water you can cool your bottle by putting a
wet sock or something similar over it. The water of the cloth
evaporates and cools down the liquid in your bottle. You’ll like the
refreshment on hot days! |
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Kakadu
Nationalpark. Unfortunately we haven’t been there. All I can say
is that it has to be a very exciting spot, as well as the nearby
situated Litchfield NP |
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 | Katherine
Gorge. Nice gorge that can be explored by canoe. Nitmiluk
NP includes 12 other gorges |
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Mataranka
Thermal Pools. I still regret that we didn’t use this
opportunity. The Thermal Pools seem to be well known |
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Newcastle
Waters. Again something we missed. These ruins
of a town are only 2km off the highway. We camped near the
crossing, but we weren’t aware of this place of interest |
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Devils
Marbles. Quite big marbles of stone. They are there, hanging
around and waiting for you to come. Only few tourists make the
500m-detour from the highway to the marbles |
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Henbury
Meteorite Conservation Reserve. Unfortunately the road was closed,
so we couldn’t get to the meteorite crater |
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Mount
Conner. From a great distance this mesa looks similar to Uluru /
Ayers Rock. There are tours departing at the roadhouse of Curtin
Springs (see below) |
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Uluru.
The famous monolith. Thousands of tourists. Advertisement for
sightseeing flights by helicopter: “You don’t even leave a
footprint”... My suggestion: Take a bicycle or walk around. You’ll
have enough time to see the beauty of Ayers Rock and you don’t
harass other people by the helicopter’s noise |
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 | Kata
Tjuta. Less known than Uluru but not less beautiful. Advice:
don’t take the late tour. Otherwise they will drag you back to the
car after a short time and carry
you off to Uluru in order to see the sunset (I
must admit that it wasn’t that bad. But I think you got the idea) |
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 | Watarrka.
A detour that is worth the pain. Just beautiful |
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 | Coober
Pedy. A rough town in a rough environment. Underground
accommodations and a wide range of opal stores are
inviting you for a visit |
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 | Botanical
Garden of Port Augusta. The only reason for me to mention it is,
that it showed more or less the same plants we had seen every day for
about one month. It’s probably more interesting for people cycling
to the north – they can have a first look at what they will see
during
the next 2000km or so |
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Great
Ocean Road. Because of lack of time we chose a different route.
Except for the high traffic density this must be a very nice route – we were told so many times |
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 | Daly
Waters. A genuine pub, about 2km beside the Stuart HWY. The walls
are covered with business cards and stickers from allover the world.
Moreover, the fabulous Stuart Tree is only a stone’s throw from
there. At least its remains |
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Barrow
Creek. A very atmospheric roadhouse. These walls are covered with
money from allover the world |
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Casa
Nostra (Alice Springs). Although this is a real restaurant and not
a roadhouse, I had to mention it somewhere. Dignified atmosphere and
great italian food |
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Mount
Ebenezer. This roadhouse belongs to a Yolngu community and runs a
nice gallery with aboriginal works of arts |
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Curtin
Springs. The „original Curtin Springs
Bullshit“ nailed on the wall, the cook who prepared us some
breakfast in the evening and the barkeeper who had some tricky mental
exercises for us – it was just cool there. There is also a free
campground (it’s about the same as desert soil)
and you can take a shower for 1A$ |
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Remember:
summer in Europe and the rest of the northern hemisphere means winter
in Australia (...and the rest of the southern hemisphere, of course).
Although the temperatures in the northern part of the country still
are quite hot, sunset is early in the evening. In addition to that it
can get rather cold in the inner part of the continent |
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 | I
think it's best to buy the maps/atlas on site. A big map showing the
hole country is not very useful, since it is not precise enough. We
were using the "Handy Atlas" from "Hema". In my
opinion this is a quite good product. We were told that australian
automobile clubs
also publish some good maps |
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During
the flight or rather the loading and unloading, the cycles usually aren't treated very
carefully by the employees. That's why you are often recommended to
pack your bike into an old carton. We didn't do that, but we demounted
some exposed pieces and put our recumbents into some strong plastic
bags. Result: the conduit of my bike's front hydraulic break was slightly crushed. Fortunately
the break still worked. On the return flight I was too lazy to demount
anything and was lucky that there was no damage on the bike |
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 | If
you stay in Australia for a
longer period you may take into consideration to open a bank account. It's almost everywhere possible to
pay by using a bank card. Also credit cards are almost everywhere welcome |
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 | Topic
dangerous animals: there are no lions, bears etc. in Australia. The
only mammals that might annoy you are the dingoes (especially the ones
on campgrounds - they are used to the presence of humans and don't
fear them anymore). But there are crocodiles in the northern swamps.
And, of course there is a quite wide range of venomous snakes. Usually not really dangerous but appearing in great
numbers and very annoying: flies, mosquitos and sometimes ants
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Another
hint concerning animals: make sure that there is no snake in your shoes
before you put them on. It's the same for the sleeping bag. Snakes like
warm temperatures and could therefore try to find a warm place in your
sleeping bag |
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 | There
are no 4.5V flat batteries in Australia. Maybe these batteries are a swiss/european exclusiveness? In any case I couldn't use my torch and
had to buy a new one. A good alternative to a conventional pocket lamp
is in my opinion a LED-headlamp.
Some people use them even for cycling |
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We
stored our documents (passport, credit card) in a kind of wallet
that's wore around the neck. This is safe, but I never got used to it.
Additionally the partner had copies of the most important documents
and of the keys |
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We
made very good experiences in writing a diary about the journey. It's
not always easy to drop a line after a hard day, I have to admit. But
weeks, months or years after the journey you'll laugh about the pain
and you'll rejoice about a nice day |
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Aldi
developed his photos right on site (less expensive than in
Switzerland). He was quite disappointed, since the colours are by far
to intense and the borders are
often truncated. Of course this won't be the case in every australian photo shop. But I think
it's the best to develop your pictures in a shop you
know and you made good experiences with |
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Last
but not least: |
In
Australia, as a cyclist you have to wear a helmet. But you would anyway
never cycle without your helmet, would you?
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